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    Why a stronger dollar is dangerous

    The dollar is looking increasingly formidable. As American growth has stayed strong and investors have scaled back bets that the Federal Reserve will cut interest rates, money has flooded into the country’s markets—and the greenback has shot up. It has risen by 4% this year, measured against a trade-weighted basket of currencies, and the fundamentals point to further appreciation. With a presidential election looming, and both Democrats and Republicans determined to promote American manufacturing, the world is on the verge of a difficult new period of strong-dollar geopolitics.This situation is made still more difficult by the fact that the currency’s strength reflects weakness elsewhere. By the end of 2023, America’s economy was 8% larger than at the end of 2019. Those of Britain, France, Germany and Japan each grew by less than 2% during the same period. The yen is at a 34-year low against the dollar. The euro has dropped to $1.07 from $1.10 at the start of the year (see chart 1). Some traders are now betting that the pair will reach parity by the beginning of next year.Chart: The EconomistShould Donald Trump win in November, the scene is therefore set for a fight. A strong dollar tends to raise the price of American exports and lower the price of imports, which would widen the country’s persistent trade deficit—a bugbear of Mr Trump’s for many decades. Robert Lighthizer, the architect of tariffs against China during Mr Trump’s time in the White House, wants to weaken the dollar, according to Politico, a news website. President Joe Biden has made no public pronouncements on the currency, but a strong dollar complicates his manufacturing agenda.Elsewhere, a mighty greenback is good for exporters that have costs denominated in other currencies. But high American interest rates and a strong dollar generate imported inflation, which is now exacerbated by relatively high oil prices. In addition, companies that have borrowed in dollars face steeper repayments. On April 18th Kristalina Georgieva, head of the IMF, warned about the impact of these developments on global financial stability.Many countries have ample foreign-exchange reserves that they could sell to bolster their currencies: Japan has $1.3trn, India $643bn and South Korea $419bn. Yet any relief would be temporary. Although sales slowed the strengthening of the dollar in 2022, when the Fed began raising interest rates, they did not stop it. Central banks and finance ministries are loth to waste their holdings on fruitless fights.Another option is international co-ordination to halt the greenback’s climb. The start of this was on display on April 16th, when the finance ministers of America, Japan and South Korea expressed concern about the slump of the yen and won. This may be the precursor to more intervention—in the form of joint sales of foreign-exchange reserves—to prevent the two Asian currencies from weakening further.But as much as these countries may want to be on the same page, economics is unavoidably pulling them apart. After all, yen and won weakness is driven by the gap in interest rates between America and other countries. South Korea’s two-year government bonds offer a return of around 3.5%, and Japan’s just 0.3%, while American Treasuries maturing at the same time offer 5% (see chart 2). If interest rates stay markedly higher in America, investors seeking returns face a straightforward choice—and their decisions will buttress the dollar.Chart: The EconomistThen there are countries with which America is less likely to co-operate. According to Goldman Sachs, a bank, China saw $39bn or so in foreign-exchange outflows in March as investors fled the country’s languishing economy—the fourth most of any month since 2016. The yuan has weakened steadily against the dollar since the beginning of the year, and more rapidly from mid-March, since when the dollar has risen from 7.18 yuan to 7.25. Bank of America expects it to reach 7.45 by September, when America’s election campaign will be in full flow. That would put the yuan at its weakest since 2007, providing a boost to China’s government’s latest export drive. Cheap Chinese electric vehicles may be about to become even cheaper, infuriating American politicians.Even protectionists in America may be willing to overlook allies’ weak currencies, at least for a time. They are less likely to for China. This raises the risk of further tariffs and sanctions, and maybe even the return of China to America’s list of currency manipulators. So long as America’s economy outperforms, the dollar is likely to remain strong. And so long as American politicians see that as a cause for concern, trade tensions will rise. ■ More

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    PepsiCo earnings beat estimates but product recalls, weaker lower-income consumer hurt U.S. sales

    PepsiCo beat quarterly earnings and revenue estimates.
    Volume and sales growth were better in most international markets than in its North America segments.
    In its home market, product recalls and weaker demand from lower-income consumers hurt sales.

    Bottles of Pepsi soda are seen on display at a Target store on February 09, 2024 in the Flatbush neighborhood of Brooklyn borough New York City.
    Michael M. Santiago | Getty Images

    PepsiCo on Tuesday reported quarterly earnings and revenue that beat analysts’ expectations, despite weaker U.S. demand caused by Quaker Oats recalls and backlash to higher prices for its drinks and snacks.
    Shares of the company were down less than 1% in premarket trading.

    Here’s what the company reported compared with what Wall Street was expecting, based on a survey of analysts by LSEG:

    Earnings per share: $1.61 adjusted vs. $1.52 expected
    Revenue: $18.25 billion vs. $18.07 billion expected

    Pepsi reported first-quarter net income attributable to the company of $2.04 billion, or $1.48 per share, up from $1.93 billion, or $1.40 per share, a year earlier.
    Excluding items, Pepsi earned $1.61 per share.
    Net sales rose 2.3% to $18.25 billion. The company’s organic revenue, which excludes acquisitions, divestitures and foreign exchange, increased 2.7% in the quarter.
    But the company’s volume is still under pressure. Pepsi, along with many of its rivals, has seen its volume fall in response to higher prices for its Gatorade, Fritos and other products in its portfolio.

    The company’s food division saw its volume decrease 0.5%, while its beverage segment reported flat volume. The metric strips out pricing and currency changes to reflect demand.
    A recall of many Quaker Foods cereals and bars only worsened Pepsi’s volume problem. The company issued the first recall for potential salmonella contamination in December, then widened it in January. The North American Quaker Food division reported that its volume cratered 22% in the quarter. The Quaker Foods recall dented Pepsi’s organic volume by roughly 1%.
    Pepsi will officially close a Quaker Oats plant tied to the recalls in June, although production there has already ceased. Pepsi said the company has resumed limited production of certain products affected by the recalls.
    Pepsi’s other North American divisions also reported weaker volume. Volume in its beverage unit fell 5% in the quarter, while Frito-Lay North America reported a 2% decline in its volume.
    Frito-Lay North America’s effective net pricing was up 3% in the quarter, while Pepsi’s domestic beverages unit’s prices rose 6%.
    In the U.S., lower-income consumers are still trying to stretch their paychecks, Pepsi CEO Ramon Laguarta told analysts on the company’s conference call. Pepsi is trying to target the demographic and keep them as customers, particularly for its snacks like Cheetos.
    Outside of the U.S., demand was stronger. Its Asia-Pacific, Australia, New Zealand and China region reported 12% volume growth for snacks. Chinese consumers are cautious and saving more money, but they’re still buying more Pepsi products, according to Laguarta. Even in Europe, which has also struggled with higher grocery prices, beverage volume increased 7% and snack volume rose 2%.
    Pepsi also reiterated its 2024 outlook. For the full year, the company is expecting organic revenue will rise at least 4% and core constant currency earnings per share will climb at least 8%.
    “As we look ahead, we continue to expect a normalization and moderation in category growth rates versus the last few years,” Pepsi executives said in prepared remarks. “We also continue to expect that consumers will remain watchful with their budgets and choiceful with their purchases.”

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    JetBlue shares tumble 13% after airline lowers 2024 revenue outlook

    JetBlue’s forecasts for second-quarter and full-year revenue fell below analysts’ estimates.
    The carrier has been on a cost-cutting spree and is cutting unprofitable routes and focusing on those with steady and premium demand.
    JetBlue called off its merger agreement of Spirit Airlines last month after a judge blocked the deal earlier this year.

    Silhouette of passenger in front of the JetBlue Airbus A321neo aircraft spotted on the apron tarmac docked at the passenger jet bridge from the terminal of Amsterdam Schiphol International Airport AMS EHAM in the Netherlands. 
    Nicholas Economou | Nurphoto | Getty Images

    JetBlue Airways shares tumbled more than 13% in premarket trading Tuesday after the airline lowered its 2024 revenue forecast, a setback as it tries to return to profitability.
    The carrier said second-quarter revenue would likely drop as much as 10.5% on the year, more than double the decline analysts polled by LSEG expected. New York-JetBlue forecast full-year sales would drop in the low single digits, also below Wall Street expectations, after estimating flat sales for the year in its January report.

    JetBlue has been on a cost-cutting spree, culling unprofitable routes, and focusing on those with steady demand and high sales for premium seats. The carrier last month called off its merger agreement with budget carrier Spirit Airlines after a judge blocked that $3.8 billion deal on antitrust grounds.
    The outlook update Tuesday shows a growing divide between JetBlue and its larger rivals that have big international networks like Delta and United, which have forecast profits, strong revenue and record demand this summer.
    “As we look to the full year, significant elevated capacity in our Latin [America] region, which represents a large portion of JetBlue’s network, will likely continue to pressure revenue and we expect a setback in our expectations for the full year,” Joanna Geraghty, who became CEO in February, said in an earnings release. “We have full confidence that continuing to take action on our refocused standalone strategy is the right path forward to ultimately return to profitability again.”

    Stock chart icon

    JetBlue stock falls Tuesday.

    JetBlue is affected by a Pratt & Whitney engine recall that has grounded some of its planes. In an investor presentation Tuesday, the airline said it was “actively exploring” more cost cuts.
    JetBlue earlier this year said it would defer $2.5 billion in aircraft spending until the end of the year.

    In the first three months of the year, JetBlue lost $716 million, or $2.11 per share, compared with a loss of $192 million, or 58 cents a share, in the same period of 2023.
    Adjusting for one-time items, including break-up charges related to the failed Spirit merger, JetBlue lost $145 million, or 43 cents per share, narrower than the 52-cent adjusted loss analysts polled by LSEG expected.
    Revenue dropped 5.1% from last year to $2.21 billion, matching LSEG revenue expectations.
    Bright spots included strong demand in the peak travel period, domestic and Europe flights “as well as continued outsized demand for our premium seating options,” said JetBlue’s President, Marty St. George, who returned to the airline earlier this year.

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    General Motors raises 2024 guidance after big first-quarter earnings beat

    General Motors on Tuesday raised its 2024 guidance after beating Wall Street’s top- and bottom-line expectations for the first quarter.
    GM’s North American operations, driven by truck sales, were largely responsible for the company’s first-quarter beat and guidance raise, the automaker said. 
    GM said revenue during the first three months of this year was up 7.6% from roughly $40 billion a year earlier.

    DETROIT — General Motors on Tuesday raised its 2024 guidance after beating Wall Street’s top- and bottom-line expectations for the first quarter.
    The automaker said it was boosting its forecast after strong North American operations offset losses elsewhere during the first quarter. The company now expects adjusted earnings of $12.5 billion to $14.5 billion, or $9 to $10 a share, up from a previous range of $12 billion to $14 billion, or $8.50 to $9.50 a share.

    GM also raised expectations for adjusted automotive free cash flow to a range of $8.5 billion to $10.5 billion, up from an earlier forecast of $8 billion to $10 billion.
    GM shares jumped more than 4% immediately following the report.
    Here’s how the company performed in the first quarter, compared with average estimates compiled by LSEG:

    Earnings per share: $2.62 adjusted vs. $2.15 expected
    Revenue: $43.01 billion vs. $41.92 billion expected

    GM said revenue during the first three months of this year was up 7.6% from roughly $40 billion a year earlier. Its net income during the first quarter rose about 26% to $2.95 billion.
    The automaker’s net income attributable to stockholders, which excludes some dividend payouts, was up 24.4% to $2.98 billion, or $2.56 per share, from the first quarter of 2023 when the company reported net income attributable to stockholders of about $2.4 billion, or $1.69 a share. 

    The automaker’s adjusted earnings before interest and taxes were $3.87 billion, or $2.62 per share, during the first quarter. 

    Stock chart icon

    GM’s stock price

    GM’s North American operations, driven by truck sales, were largely responsible for the company’s first-quarter beat and guidance raise, the automaker said.  
    The division increased adjusted earnings during the quarter to $3.84 billion, up 7.4% from a year earlier, and helped to offset losses of $106 million in China and $10 million in other international markets during the first three months of the year.
    Steady vehicle pricing and increased retail sales in North America also helped GM achieve a 10.6% adjusted profit margin in the region for the period – above its previously announced 8% to 10% range for the year.
    GM CFO Paul Jacobson said prices for the automaker’s vehicles were roughly flat to slightly lower due to vehicle mix during the quarter, but not down as much as the 2% to 2.5% decline the company anticipated for the year.
    “Our consumer has been remarkably resilient in this period of higher interest rates,” Jacobson told reporters during a briefing. “We think in this environment that we can continue to perform.”
    He also noted GM’s loss in China was “slightly better” than the company had previously forecast.

    2024 Chevrolet Silverado HD ZR2

    GM specifically noted that sales of its highly profitable pickups remain strong, while production of its all-electric vehicles continues to ramp up following bottlenecks in production, particularly with battery modules.
    “As we continue to strengthen our [internal combustion engine] portfolio, scale EVs and reinvest in the business, we are very focused on capital efficiency, enhancing profitability and free cash flow, and we will continue to take steps to create shareholder value,” GM CEO Mary Barra said in a letter to shareholders.
    Jacobson said the company still plans to produce between 200,000 and 300,000 EVs during 2024.
    While North America continues to be strong for the automaker, vehicle inventory levels in the U.S. are rising. The company ended the first quarter with a 63 days’ supply of vehicles – above the automaker’s previous guidance of 50 days to 60 days.
    Jacobson said the company is watching those levels but is not too concerned about the number of vehicles ahead of a spring and summer selling season that includes some factory shutdowns for retooling.
    “We actually feel pretty good about where we are,” he said. “It’s something that obviously we’re watching. But right now, no signs of any softness that we can see.”
    GM’s financing arm reported adjusted earnings of $737 million during the first quarter, down 4.4% from a year earlier.
    Correction: This story has to been updated to correct that General Motors plans to produce between 200,000 and 300,000 EVs during 2024.

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    Philippines orders removal of Binance from Google and Apple app stores

    The Philippines’ Securities and Exchange Commission sent letters to Google and Apple requesting the removal of Binance apps from their respective app stores.
    The agency accused Binance of offering unregistered securities to Filipinos and operating as an unregistered broker.
    The regulator said that blocking Binance from app stores would help “prevent the further proliferation of its illegal activities in the country.”

    Zhao Changpeng, founder and chief executive officer of Binance, attends the Viva Technology conference dedicated to innovation and startups at Porte de Versailles exhibition center in Paris, France June 16, 2022. 
    Benoit Tessier | Reuters

    The Philippines’ Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC) has ordered Google and Apple to remove cryptocurrency exchange Binance from their app stores.
    In a press release out on Tuesday, the regulator said it had sent letters to Google and Apple requesting the removal of applications controlled by Binance from the Google Play Store and Apple App Store, respectively.

    SEC Chairperson Emilio Aquino said that the Philippine public’s continued access to Binance sites and apps “poses a threat to the security of the funds of investing Filipinos.”
    The agency accused Binance of offering unregistered securities to Filipinos and operating as an unregistered broker, adding that this violates the country’s securities laws.
    Binance, Google, and Apple were not immediately available for comment when contacted by CNBC.
    Aquino said that blocking Binance from the Google and Apple app stores would help “prevent the further proliferation of its illegal activities in the country, and to protect the investing public from its detrimental effects on our economy.”

    The Philippines’ National Telecommunications Commission has previously moved to block access to websites used by Binance in the country.

    The SEC says it earlier warned the Philippines public against using Binance and began studying the possibility of blocking Binance’s services in the Philippines as early as November last year.
    The SEC said that Binance has been actively promoting its services on social media to attract funds from Filipinos, despite not being licensed by the regulator.
    The watchdog said it is urging Filipinos with investments in Binance to immediately close their positions, or to transfer their crypto holdings to their own crypto wallets or exchanges registered in the Philippines.
    The action adds to a litany of woes for Binance, which recently replaced its CEO with Richard Teng, the former chief of UAE regulator Abu Dhabi Global Markets, in November 2023, after a U.S. government settlement ordering the company to pay a $4.3 billion fine for alleged money laundering violations.
    Former Binance CEO Changpeng Zhao was charged with violating the Bank Secrecy Act and agreed to step down. Zhao’s sentencing is expected to take place on April 30.
    Binance has separately been sued by the U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission and the Commodity Futures Trading Commission over alleged mishandling of customer assets and the operation of an illegal, unregistered exchange in the U.S. More

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    Walmart-backed fintech One introduces buy now, pay later as it prepares bigger push into lending

    Walmart’s majority-owned fintech startup One has begun offering buy now, pay later loans for big-ticket items at some of the retailer’s more than 4,600 U.S. stores, CNBC has learned.
    The move puts One in direct competition with Affirm, the BNPL leader and exclusive provider of installment loans for Walmart customers since 2019.
    One’s expanding role at Walmart raises the possibility that the company could force Affirm, Capital One and other third parties out of some of the most coveted partnerships in American retail.

    Customers shop in a Walmart Supercenter on February 20, 2024 in Hallandale Beach, Florida.
    Joe Raedle | Getty Images News | Getty Images

    Walmart’s majority-owned fintech startup One has begun offering buy now, pay later loans for big-ticket items at some of the retailer’s more than 4,600 U.S. stores, CNBC has learned.
    The move puts One in direct competition with Affirm, the BNPL leader and exclusive provider of installment loans for Walmart customers since 2019. It’s a relationship that the Bentonville, Arkansas, retailer expanded recently, introducing Affirm as a payment option at Walmart self-checkout kiosks.

    It also likely signals that a battle is brewing in the store aisles and ecommerce portals of America’s largest retailer. At stake is the role of a wide spectrum of players, from fintech firms to card companies and established banks.
    One’s push into lending is the clearest sign yet of its ambition to become a financial superapp, a mobile one-stop shop for saving, spending and borrowing money.
    Since it burst onto the scene in 2021, luring Goldman Sachs veteran Omer Ismail as CEO, the fintech startup has intrigued and threatened a financial landscape dominated by banks — and poached talent from more established lenders and payments firms.
    But the company, based out of a cramped Manhattan WeWork space, has operated mostly in stealth mode while developing its early products, including a debit account released in 2022.
    Now, One is going head-to-head with some of Walmart’s existing partners like Affirm who helped the retail giant generate $648 billion in revenue last year.

    Walmart’s Fintech startup One is now offering BNPL loans in Secaucus, New Jersey.
    Hugh Son | CNBC

    On a recent visit by CNBC to a New Jersey Walmart location, ads for both One and Affirm vied for attention among the Apple products and Android smartphones in the store’s electronics section.
    Offerings from both One and Affirm were available at checkout, and loans from either provider were available for purchases starting at around $100 and costing as much as several thousand dollars at an annual interest rate of between 10% to 36%, according to their respective websites.
    Electronics, jewelry, power tools and automotive accessories are eligible for the loans, while groceries, alcohol and weapons are not.
    Buy now, pay later has gained popularity with consumers for everyday items as well as larger purchases. From January through March of this year, BNPL drove $19.2 billion in online spending, according to Adobe Analytics. That’s a 12% year-over-year increase.
    Walmart and One declined to comment for this article.

    Who stays, who goes?

    One’s expanding role at Walmart raises the possibility that the company could force Affirm, Capital One and other third parties out of some of the most coveted partnerships in American retail, according to industry experts.
    “I have to imagine the goal is to have all this stuff, whether it’s a credit card, buy now, pay later loans or remittances, to have it all unified in an app under a single brand, delivered online and through Walmart’s physical footprint,” said Jason Mikula, a consultant formerly employed at Goldman’s consumer division.
    Affirm declined to comment about its Walmart partnership.
    For Walmart, One is part of its broader effort to develop new revenue sources beyond its retail stores in areas including finance and health care, following rival Amazon’s playbook with cloud computing and streaming, among other segments. Walmart’s newer businesses have higher margins than retail and are a part of its plan to grow profits faster than sales.
    In February, Walmart said it was buying TV maker Vizio for $2.3 billion to boost its advertising business, another growth area for the retailer.

    ‘Bank of Walmart’

    When it comes to finance, One is just Walmart’s latest attempt to break into the banking business. Starting in the 1990s, Walmart made repeated efforts to enter the industry through direct ownership of a banking arm, each time getting blocked by lawmakers and industry groups concerned that a “Bank of Walmart” would crush small lenders and squeeze big ones.
    To sidestep those concerns, Walmart adopted a more arms-length approach this time around. For One, the retailer created a joint venture with investment firm firm Ribbit Capital — known for backing fintech firms including Robinhood, Credit Karma and Affirm — and staffed the business with executives from across finance.
    Walmart has not disclosed the size of its investment in One.
    The startup has said that it makes decisions independent of Walmart, though its board includes Walmart U.S. CEO, John Furner, and its finance chief, John David Rainey.
    One doesn’t have a banking license, but partners with Coastal Community Bank for the debit card and installment loans.
    After its failed early attempts in banking, Walmart pursued a partnership strategy, teaming up with a constellation of providers, including Capital One, Synchrony, MoneyGram, Green Dot, and more recently, Affirm. Leaning on partners, the retailer opened thousands of physical MoneyCenter locations within its stores to offer check cashing, sending and receiving payments, and tax services.

    From paper to pixels

    But Walmart and One executives have made no secret of their ambition to become a major player in financial services by leapfrogging existing players with a clean-slate effort.
    One’s no-fee approach is especially relevant to low- and middle-income Americans who are “underserved financially,” Rainey, a former PayPal executive, noted during a December conference.
    “We see a lot of that customer demographic, so I think it gives us the ability to participate in this space in maybe a way that others don’t,” Rainey said. “We can digitize a lot of the services that we do physically today. One is the platform for that.”
    One could generate roughly $1.6 billion in annual revenue from debit cards and lending in the near term, and more than $4 billion if it expands into investing and other areas, according to Morgan Stanley.
    Walmart can use its scale to grow One in other ways. It is the largest private employer in the U.S. with about 1.6 million employees, and it already offers its workers early access to wages if they sign up for a corporate version of One.

    Walmart’s next card

    There are signs that One is making a deeper push into lending beyond installment loans.
    Walmart recently prevailed in a legal dispute with Capital One, allowing the retailer to end its credit-card partnership years ahead of schedule. Walmart sued Capital One last year, alleging that its exclusive partnership with the card issuer was void after it failed to live up to contractual obligations around customer service, assertions that Capital One denied.
    The lawsuit led to speculation that Walmart intends to have One take over management of the retailer’s co-branded and store cards. In fact, in legal filings Capital One itself alleged that Walmart’s rationale was less about servicing complaints and more about moving transactions to a company it owns.
    “Upon information and belief, Walmart intends to offer its branded credit cards through One in the future,” Capital One said last year in response to Walmart’s suit. “With One, Walmart is positioning itself to compete directly with Capital One to provide credit and payment products to Walmart customers.”

    A Capital One Walmart credit card sign is seen at a store in Mountain View, California, United States on Tuesday, November 19, 2019.
    Yichuan Cao | Nurphoto | Getty Images

    Capital One said last month that it could appeal the decision. The company declined to comment further.
    Meanwhile, Walmart said last year when its lawsuit became public that it would soon announce a new credit card option with “meaningful benefits and rewards.”
    One has obtained lending licenses that allow it to operate in nearly every U.S. state, according to filings and its website. The company’s app tells users that credit building and credit score monitoring services are coming soon.

    Catching Cash App, Chime

    And while One’s expansion threatens to supersede Walmart’s existing financial partners, Walmart’s efforts could also be seen as defensive.
    Fintech players including Block’s Cash App, PayPal and Chime dominate account growth among people who switch bank accounts and have made inroads with Walmart’s core demographic. The three services made up 60% of digital player signups last year, according to data and consultancy firm Curinos.
    But One has the advantage of being majority owned by a company whose customers make more than 200 million visits a week.
    It can offer them enticements including 3% cashback on Walmart purchases and a savings account that pays 5% interest annually, far higher than most banks, according to customer emails from One.
    Those terms keep customers spending and saving within the Walmart ecosystem and helps the retailer better understand them, Morgan Stanley analysts said in a 2022 research note.
    “One has access to Walmart’s sizable and sticky customer base, the largest in retail,” the analysts wrote. “This captive and underserved customer base gives One a leg up vs. other fintechs.”

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    FTC sues to block Coach parent Tapestry’s acquisition of Capri Holdings

    The FTC sued to block the $8.5 billion acquisition of Capri Holdings by Coach and Kate Spade’s parent company, Tapestry.
    The fashion tie-up would put six major brands under a single company: Tapestry’s Coach, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman and Capri’s Versace, Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors.
    The deal was expected to close this year.

    Pedestrians walk past a Coach store and a Michael Kors store.
    Scott Olson | Getty Images

    The U.S. Federal Trade Commission on Monday sued to block the $8.5 billion acquisition of Capri Holdings by Coach and Kate Spade’s parent company, Tapestry.
    The move by regulators brings at least a temporary halt to a deal that would marry two major names in American luxury retail and put six fashion brands under a single company: Tapestry’s Coach, Kate Spade and Stuart Weitzman and Capri’s Versace, Jimmy Choo and Michael Kors. With the transaction, the luxury brands could be poised to better compete with European luxury names, such as Burberry and LVMH’s Louis Vuitton.

    In a news release, the FTC said the combined company would harm shoppers and employees. It said Tapestry and Capri “currently compete on everything from clothing to eyewear to shoes.”
    “With the goal to become a serial acquirer, Tapestry seeks to acquire Capri to further entrench its stronghold in the fashion industry,” Henry Liu, director of the FTC’s Bureau of Competition, said in the release. “This deal threatens to deprive consumers of the competition for affordable handbags, while hourly workers stand to lose the benefits of higher wages and more favorable workplace conditions.”
    Tapestry argued the federal agency “fundamentally misunderstands both the marketplace and the way in which consumers shop.”
    In a statement, the company said it must win the business of consumers who increasingly shop across brands, channels and price points.

    More CNBC retail news

    “The bottom line is that Tapestry and Capri face competitive pressures from both lower- and higher-priced products,” it said. “In bringing this case, the FTC has chosen to ignore the reality of today’s dynamic and expanding $200 billion global luxury industry.”

    Capri echoed that argument in its own statement, saying consumers “have hundreds of handbag choices at every price point across all channels, and barriers to entry are low.”
    Tapestry and Capri both said they will fight for the transaction in court, with Tapestry saying it will work “expeditiously to close the transaction in calendar year 2024.”
    Tapestry announced the proposed acquisition in August. The deal had been expected to close in 2024. It had already secured approval from regulators in Europe and Japan, according to a financial filing by the company earlier this month, but was still waiting for the approval of U.S. officials — the only regulator still outstanding.
    When Tapestry unveiled the deal, CEO Joanne Crevoiserat told CNBC that the combined companies would be able to reach more customers across the globe. Together, the two companies would have over $12 billion in annual revenue and a presence in more than 75 countries.
    Both Tapestry and Capri have been under pressure, as consumers continue to be choosier with discretionary spending. Yet Capri, in particular, has been more vulnerable because of its heavier reliance than Tapestry on department stores and other wholesale retailers.
    Led by Crevoiserat, Tapestry has raised the profile of Coach’s brand, attracted younger shoppers, and tried to lean on fashion and loyalty, rather than deep discounts, to drive higher sales and profits. The vast majority of Tapestry’s sales are through its own website and stores, with wholesale accounting for only about 10% of sales globally in the most recently reported fiscal quarter.
    As of Monday’s close, shares of Tapestry are up nearly 10% so far this year compared with the stock of Capri, which has fallen about 24% over the same period.

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    Express files for bankruptcy, plans to close nearly 100 stores as investor group looks to save the brand

    Express filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy as an investor group led by brand management firm WHP Global looks to acquire most of its assets.
    The longtime mall retailer has failed to stay on trend and keep up with shifting consumer demand, which has led sales to plummet in recent years.
    Express, whose portfolio includes its namesake banner, UpWest and Bonobos, said operations will continue as normal but 95 Express stores and all UpWest stores will close.

    Pedestrians walk past an Express Inc. store in New York, U.S., on Wednesday, May 31, 2017.
    Mark Kauziarich | Bloomberg | Getty Images

    Longtime mall retailer Express filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy protection in Delaware federal court on Monday, but a group of investors led by brand management firm WHP Global is looking to save the company by acquiring it. 
    Express, whose portfolio includes its namesake banner, Bonobos and UpWest, said it will close 95 of its eponymous shops and all of its UpWest doors. As of last January, the company had 553 total stores, according to company securities filings. It’s not clear how many of those were UpWest stores, but the brand’s website shows that it has 10 locations.

    Closing sales are expected to begin Tuesday. The company said hours for remaining stores won’t change and it will continue to accept orders and returns as usual.
    In a news release, Express said it filed for bankruptcy to “facilitate” a sale process of most of its retail stores and operations to the investor group, which includes WHP, Simon Property Group and Brookfield Properties. It received a nonbinding letter of intent from the investors to buy the assets, and has also secured $35 million in new financing from some of its existing lenders, subject to court approval. 
    “The proposed transaction will provide Express with additional financial resources, better position the business for profitable growth and maximize value for the Company’s stakeholders,” Express said. 
    Express also secured $49 million in cash from the IRS related to the CARES Act – a critical influx of liquidity that the company had been waiting on to shore up its balance sheet. 
    “We continue to make meaningful progress refining our product assortments, driving demand, connecting with customers and strengthening our operations,” CEO Stewart Glendinning said in a statement. 

    “We are taking an important step that will strengthen our financial position and enable Express to continue advancing our business initiatives,” he added.
    The business casual apparel brand, founded in 1980 by Les Wexner’s Limited Brands, has seen sales plummet over the last few years as debt and costly mall leases dragged down its business. 
    In a court filing, Express said that it had $1.3 billion in total assets and $1.2 billion in total debts as of March 2.
    Earlier this month, CNBC reported that Express was struggling to pay its vendors on time, indicating it was in financial distress and struggling to manage cash flows. When retailers can’t pay their vendors, suppliers sometimes tighten payment terms or refuse to fulfill orders, which can further pressure a company’s liquidity.
    Last spring, Express acquired Bonobos’ operating assets and related liabilities for $25 million from Walmart in a joint deal with WHP. The deal came as Express’ “core business was weak, and cash was tight,” GlobalData managing director Neil Saunders said in a Monday note.
    Still, its biggest problem was declining revenue, which has fallen by about 10% since 2019, Saunders said. 
    “This stands in marked contrast to an apparel sector that has grown strongly over the same period. This has put the company under a lot of financial strain and has resulted in some significant losses. None of this is sustainable which is one of the reasons for bankruptcy,” said Saunders.  
    “The woes at Express are not all of its own making,” he said. “The formal and smart casual market for both men and women has softened over recent years because of a rise from working from home and the casualization of fashion. This puts Express firmly on the wrong side of trends and, in our view, the chain made too little effort to adapt.”
    Bankruptcy will provide some key relief to Express and help it get back on stronger footing as it works to implement its turnaround strategy. It’ll allow the retailer to get out of costly and burdensome leases, many of which are in struggling malls, and has made the company more attractive to buyers. 
    Powerhouse law firm Kirkland & Ellis, which led Bed Bath & Beyond and many other failed retailers through their bankruptcies, is serving as Express’ legal counsel. Moelis & Co. has been tapped as its investment banker and M3 Partners has signed on as its financial advisor.

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