
How Yemeni Cafes like Haraz Coffee House Are Building Momentum and Community
A couple of weeks ago, when Hamzah Nasser learned that the Israeli military had bombed the Yemeni port of Hudaydah, he knew he had a problem. His monthly coffee shipments already involved an arduous journey from the country’s mountainous interior to his cafe in Dearborn, Mich. — facing warring factions on land and rebel fire by sea. Now their usual path was blocked.“It’s getting a little bit stressful,” Nasser said. A Yemeni cafe requires Yemeni coffee. And Nasser, who plans to open many more Yemeni cafes, needs a lot more beans.Nasser, a former truck driver, opened his first Haraz Coffee House in Dearborn four years ago. Since then, he has gone from hauling parts for the likes of Ford to buying a 70,000-square-foot building in Dearborn that housed the company’s vehicle prototypes. His headquarters now holds two industrial roasters and a bakery, where a pastry chef recently arrived from France to train his staff. In an office upstairs, his franchising team crunches the numbers on where Haraz should open next.Increasingly, the answer is: everywhere. Nasser, who intends to double his locations to 60 in the next six months, originally sought to open cafes in Arab neighborhoods or near mosques. But his search has expanded to anywhere that’s young and diverse, or where families will linger late into the night and buy multiple rounds of $7.95 pistachio lattes.Chances are, the coffeehouses will wind up just a short distance from another Yemeni cafe.Hamzah Nasser, a former trucker who moved from Yemen at age 6, at the headquarters of Haraz Coffee House.Daniel Ribar for The New York TimesDaniel Ribar for The New York TimesThe headquarters of the Yemeni cafe brand Haraz Coffee House in Dearborn, Mich., where the imported beans are roasted.Daniel Ribar for The New York TimesWe are having trouble retrieving the article content.Please enable JavaScript in your browser settings.Thank you for your patience while we verify access. If you are in Reader mode please exit and log into your Times account, or subscribe for all of The Times.Thank you for your patience while we verify access.Already a subscriber? Log in.Want all of The Times? Subscribe. More