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    Mozambique Mints a New National Park — and Surveys Its Riches

    When you stand in the Chimanimani Mountains, it’s difficult to reconcile their present serenity with their beleaguered past. From the valleys below, enormous walls of gray stone rise above dense deciduous forests. Hidden among various crevices are ancient rock paintings, made in the late Stone Age by the San people, also known as Bushmen; they depict dancing men and women, and hunting parties chasing after elephants. There’s even a painting of a crocodile so enormous that it may forever deter you from the riverbank.As you climb higher, toward Mount Binga, Mozambique’s highest peak, the forests flatten into expanses of montane grasslands. Wild, isolated, lost in time, it’s a place where rich local traditions live on, where people still talk about ancestral spirits and sacred rituals. A local guide there once told me about a sacred mountain, Nhamabombe, where rainmakers still go to make rain.A local guide crosses the Rio Mussapa at dusk.Ancient rock art made by the San people, or Bushmen.It’s not everyday that a country with a past rife with war and environmental destruction fulfills an ambitious conservation goal. But that’s exactly what happened last year in Mozambique when, after overhauling its environmental code, the country officially designated Chimanimani as a new national park.Rain clouds move in as the sun sets, casting the valley in an otherworldly glow.Mozambique has seen its share of heartache, and Chimanimani is no exception. After the country gained independence from Portuguese colonizers in 1975, it was plunged into civil war. As many as one million Mozambicans died. So, too, did untold numbers of wild animals, which were hunted for their meat or whose parts were traded for weapons.The Chimanimani Mountains became a frontline, and their mountain passes became transits for guerrilla soldiers during both the Rhodesian Bush War, which lasted from 1964 until 1979, and the Mozambican Civil War, which stretched from 1977 until 1992.Victor Américo, a student in the master’s program in conservation biology for Mozambican students at Gorongosa National Park, sets a mist net to capture bats.Callie Gesmundo and Zak Pohlen, two ornithologists, pull mites from the feathers of a red-capped robin-chat. The mites were sent to a specialist for further study. (The pair has already contributed to the discovery of a new mite species.)Located on the Zimbabwe border about 90 miles southwest of Gorongosa, Mozambique’s most famous national park, Chimanimani National Park marks the latest triumph in an environmental renaissance for a country where, just 30 years ago, armies were still funding wars with the blood of poached wildlife.Jorge Manuel Machinga, a ranger, leads two botanists, Bart Wursten and Petra Ballings, back to camp. Mr. Wursten has done nearly a dozen field expeditions in the area — and “I still keep finding new species of plants; new to me, new to the region and even occasionally new to science,” he said.Across the country, Mozambique’s national parks authority, the National Administration of Conservation Areas, is working with private partners to bolster wildlife numbers and restore ecosystem function. The most prominent projects are in Gorongosa National Park. More